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[[File:Spore large.png|thumb|Thumbnailed image]|“Spore”]]
[[File:Spore large.png|thumb|Thumbnailed image]|“Spore”]]
This entremet, titled “Spore”, was served to the 150 guests of [https://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr/evenement/le-banquet-du-toguna/ Le Banquet] held at contemporary art museum [https://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr Palais de Tokyo]<ref>Paris, France.</ref> on November 20th, 2019 as part of [https://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr/evenement/futur-ancien-fugitif/ Futur, ancien, fugitif], an exhibition dedicated to the “french art scene”. This dish is part of a research project called [[Spore & Pollen|Spore & Pollen]].
This dessert, titled “Pollen”, was served to the 150 guests of [https://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr/evenement/le-banquet-du-toguna/ Le Banquet] held at contemporary art museum [https://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr Palais de Tokyo]<ref>Paris, France.</ref> on November 20th, 2019 as part of [https://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr/evenement/futur-ancien-fugitif/ Futur, ancien, fugitif], an exhibition dedicated to the “french art scene”. This dish is part of a research project called [[Spore & Pollen|Spore & Pollen]].
   
   
This sharing platter consisted of black brioches<ref>A typical french bread in which fat (butter, oil and even lard) is incorporated</ref>, aged pecorino cheese and puffed crystalized sage.
“Pollen” consisted of buckweat chebakias<ref>The chebakia is a traditional middle-eastern pastry, often served for Ramadan. The spicy dough is fried in oil then dipped in honey to allow its conservation.</ref> dipped and glazed and preserved in honey, later sprinkled with pollen. These fried flaky pastries were served with a lightly whipped <i>fake-vanilla</i><ref>The vanilla seeds were mimicked with powdered dehydrated black sesame. Reproducing the look of a vanilla cream allowed us to trick the guests in thinking that the cream was produced from luxurious ingredients while preventing us from supporting the prodcution of an already over exploited ressource.</ref> honey oat cream as well as salt roasted grapes.  


Shaped like multiplicating yeast cells, the sourdough brioche was produced without egg, milk or butter which were swapped for oat cream, walnut oil and aquafaba<ref>The water you get from cooking dried beans</ref>. To add to its texture when cooled, the brioche was injected with walnut oil.  
Illustrating a talk on the collapse of biodiversity and the sterile environment now facing pollinisators, this dish was deliberatly calling on a variety of crops. No mono-product, no mono-culture.
<ul>
<li>The dough of the chebakias called for buckwheat, wheat and potato starch, which was fried in peanut oil</li>
<li>The honey cream was made from oats and sunflower oil</li>
<li>The grapes were roasted with olive oil</li>
</ul>
 
“Pollen” was produced in collaboration with beekeeper and biologist [https://apihappy.fr/ Julien Perrin] who offered us multiple kilos of honey in exchange for the design of his future honey pots. The dish was served on ceramics produced by the students of the Art and Design school of Le Mans (France), under the supervision of Natsuko Uchino and Olivier Chouteau.


== Introduction to the dish ==
== Introduction to the dish ==
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[[File:Yeast.jpg|thumb|Thumbnailed image]|Yeast cells]]
[[File:Yeast.jpg|thumb|Thumbnailed image]|Yeast cells]]


“Species have cooperated together for millions of years, and we are here thanks to it. 
“As Nickie explained with [[Spore|Spore]], the hyper industrialization of our food systems has led the biodiversity of our ecosystems to collapse. An excellent witness — and the key example of this crisis — is the case of the bee.  


Plants were able to develop themselves on land thanks to Fungi, which is able to digest rocks and turn it into soil. The tendrils of the fungi (it’s “roots”) called <i>hyphae</i> extends into the solid rock, extracts vital mineral for plant growth such as calcium and then trades it for the plant’s sugars. It is this calcium that we will find later on in our bones.
The reason being that the behavior of bees is the same for a wild bee as for a domestic bee: they pollinate the nectar of plants within their reach. A large majority of these plants being nowadays spread with insecticides, both wild and domestic bees die. Unfortunately bees are not only used to produce honey. They allow pollen to be distributed from plant to plant. Without this pollination plants can no longer reproduce themselves, and it is on this reproduction that depends more than 3/4 of our food production.


<u>In a sense, the kingdom of fungi is involved in the largest mining operation in the world.</u> 
To address this issue we took the train through the suburbs of Paris, to the region of “<i>Essonne</i>, west of the capital, to meet beekeeper and biologist Julien Perrin.  
 
Julien breeds Buckfast bees, which can be considered a “rustic” species — which, in other words, means “resistant to all the disasters she has to face”. Julien works in collaboration with a large community of beekeepers to multiply these open-source bees. According to him, the bee must remain "<i>a common</i>" which no industry must take possession of, to avoid at all costs falling into the pitfall of privately owed seeds and breeds.
Fungi is the collaborative specie of our ancestors, and continues to be up until this day. It is therefore not surprising that yeast (which is also fungi) is called in many cultures: the mother. Take the Italian word for sourdough <i>lievito madre</i> for instance, <i>Moederdeeg</i> in dutch or in English, mother culture. 
 
One “mother” in particular can be credited for impacting our culture directly, and for 9000 years: it’s name is <i>Saccharomyces Cerevisiae</i>. This yeast is responsible for three of our most important culinary pillars: bread, beer and wine.  
 
Humans have been breeding several species of fungi, in the same way we have been breeding farm animals and plants. But what if we flipped this concept around ? What if the opposite was also the case? What if some of the most widespread species such as: wheat, rice, maize, coffee, sugar and yeast had, in fact, domesticated us? What if they were using us as cultivators for their own survival and reproduction, as much as we are using them for the production of valuable foods. This idea would challenge our human-centric world-view. It would allow us to perceive how humans and non-humans are, and have been throughout evolution: part of a complex cluster of interactions. It is a world view in which humans let go of one idea:  that they are the only ones who control.<br>
 
To be aware of the cooperation between species as well as how they cohabite together is fundamental, but also seems more urgent than ever. We are facing an environmental crisis and a mass extinction. Biodiversity is crucial to guaranty the resiliency of the Earth's ecosystem. We see examples of the absence of biodiversity and inter-species cooperation in agriculture, where the use of fungicides destroys the fundamental relationship between fungi and plants. This lack of biodiversity has transformed our agricultural systems into destructive and fragile industries, producing foods which are poor in nutrients and minerals.
 
To foster “biodiversity” entails therefore to take the microscopic level into consideration. Even tough they are invisible to the human eye, fungi and bacterias have thousands of functions which are essential to guarantee the well-being of our ecosystems.  
 
For this bread and cheese entre-met, we have therefore called on the use of a diversity of fungal species:<br>
<ul>
<li>1st, the yeast S. Cerevisiae as well as a multitude of wild yeasts hosted by the sourdough which we used in the brioche.</li>
<li>2nd, The propionibacteriums and wild yeasts that allows sheep milk to become the cheese we are serving to you today.</li>
</ul>


The bread and cheese are here served with crystalized sage. Sage can be used as an antidote to protect bread from mold. Because plants do collaborate with fungi, but not always.”
The indifference towards the bee also relies on the fact that humans have actually very little empathy towards insects. And indeed, there is a real misconception about what social insects are and how they think. Indeed, we often believe that insects are intelligent as a group. And yet, they have an intelligence of their own.<br>
To illustrate it, we have described through an umwelt, ergo at the first person, the activity of a bee. This text, which will punctuate our conversation with Julien Perrin, was written and then evaluated, word by word, by Fanny Rybak, biologist and researcher at the french CRNS institute, specialized in inter-species communication. It is read by french performer Nolwenn Salaün (english version) and Garance Kim (French version).”


== Take a look at the Behind the scenes ==
== Take a look at the Behind the scenes ==

Revision as of 12:07, 9 December 2019

This dessert, titled “Pollen”, was served to the 150 guests of Le Banquet held at contemporary art museum Palais de Tokyo[1] on November 20th, 2019 as part of Futur, ancien, fugitif, an exhibition dedicated to the “french art scene”. This dish is part of a research project called Spore & Pollen.

“Pollen” consisted of buckweat chebakias[2] dipped and glazed and preserved in honey, later sprinkled with pollen. These fried flaky pastries were served with a lightly whipped fake-vanilla[3] honey oat cream as well as salt roasted grapes.

Illustrating a talk on the collapse of biodiversity and the sterile environment now facing pollinisators, this dish was deliberatly calling on a variety of crops. No mono-product, no mono-culture.

  • The dough of the chebakias called for buckwheat, wheat and potato starch, which was fried in peanut oil
  • The honey cream was made from oats and sunflower oil
  • The grapes were roasted with olive oil

“Pollen” was produced in collaboration with beekeeper and biologist Julien Perrin who offered us multiple kilos of honey in exchange for the design of his future honey pots. The dish was served on ceramics produced by the students of the Art and Design school of Le Mans (France), under the supervision of Natsuko Uchino and Olivier Chouteau.

Introduction to the dish

File:Yeastcell.png
Mating yeast cells
File:Spore close.png
A close up on the soil-colored brioches
Yeast cells

“As Nickie explained with Spore, the hyper industrialization of our food systems has led the biodiversity of our ecosystems to collapse. An excellent witness — and the key example of this crisis — is the case of the bee.

The reason being that the behavior of bees is the same for a wild bee as for a domestic bee: they pollinate the nectar of plants within their reach. A large majority of these plants being nowadays spread with insecticides, both wild and domestic bees die. Unfortunately bees are not only used to produce honey. They allow pollen to be distributed from plant to plant. Without this pollination plants can no longer reproduce themselves, and it is on this reproduction that depends more than 3/4 of our food production.

To address this issue we took the train through the suburbs of Paris, to the region of “Essonne”, west of the capital, to meet beekeeper and biologist Julien Perrin. Julien breeds Buckfast bees, which can be considered a “rustic” species — which, in other words, means “resistant to all the disasters she has to face”. Julien works in collaboration with a large community of beekeepers to multiply these open-source bees. According to him, the bee must remain "a common" which no industry must take possession of, to avoid at all costs falling into the pitfall of privately owed seeds and breeds.

The indifference towards the bee also relies on the fact that humans have actually very little empathy towards insects. And indeed, there is a real misconception about what social insects are and how they think. Indeed, we often believe that insects are intelligent as a group. And yet, they have an intelligence of their own.
To illustrate it, we have described through an umwelt, ergo at the first person, the activity of a bee. This text, which will punctuate our conversation with Julien Perrin, was written and then evaluated, word by word, by Fanny Rybak, biologist and researcher at the french CRNS institute, specialized in inter-species communication. It is read by french performer Nolwenn Salaün (english version) and Garance Kim (French version).”

Take a look at the Behind the scenes

🎞Coming soon

Notes

  1. Paris, France.
  2. The chebakia is a traditional middle-eastern pastry, often served for Ramadan. The spicy dough is fried in oil then dipped in honey to allow its conservation.
  3. The vanilla seeds were mimicked with powdered dehydrated black sesame. Reproducing the look of a vanilla cream allowed us to trick the guests in thinking that the cream was produced from luxurious ingredients while preventing us from supporting the prodcution of an already over exploited ressource.